Reflecting on a chapter previously omitted from the Ralph Lauren story...
Always presented with a sensibility that embodies quality, aspiration and empowerment, Ralph Lauren garments have an enduring relationship with the notion of the American dream. It’s an emotional resonance earned by creating clothes that connect with people of all subsections of society.
The Ivy League style is ubiquitous with both America and Ralph Lauren. It champions understated elegance by merging formal and casual affectations in a way of dressing which found popularity amongst attendees of the United States’ most prestigious universities in the mid 20th century. It’s a story which Ralph refer to season upon season yet in 2022 it was rephrased, a detailing a chapter previously omitted.
Universities for black academics were full of students who dressed with the same sartorial sense of self-fulfilment as those at the elite Ivy universities. They were purveyors of the same look, in the same period; a detail often overlooked, but the point which the brand sought to address.
Inspired by the history, style and sensibility of two historically black universities in Atlanta, the 100-piece Morehouse and Spelman collection exemplified the brands’ soft touch. It placed the values of the institutions and their alumni at the core of the presentation. Astute references to archival imagery and enduring traditions informed the garments which gave focus to the familiar fixtures of suits, jumpers and striped ties. It's collaboration which is honest and earnest and feels wholly true to both parties.
The accompanying shoot portrays the pieces on professors and students, past and present, harking to a meaning in the clothes that supersedes trend and time. Depicted is a tale of ethics, knowledge and style which are cross-generational. Theres also an accompanying film which discusses the genesis of Morehouse, Spelman and Historically Black Colleges in America as well as Clothes’ role as tools in manoeuvring the politics of respectability.
James Jeter, the recently appointed creative director, was the designer who brought the culture of Morehouse, the university he attended, to Ralph’s attention. Jeter is Ralph Lauren fanatic who began his career on the shop floor. He pursued his passion becoming one of its design directors and in so assuming the perfect position to embellish the story of the Ivy League style to include all those who wrote it. With full endorsement from both schools, Ralph himself and assistance from a team of creatives made up of many attendees of both schools, Jeter lead the creation of a moment which was both beautiful and lasting.
Explore the latest Polo Ralph Lauren styles at 2nd Academic here.
